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Radiance beneath recession: Look no further than Cyprus for stunning views and architecture amid history of gods

By Jess Owen

Situated at the crossroads of Europe, Asia and Africa, Cyprus has become an open-air museum and pièce de résistance of Mediterranean historical decadence.

Geographical history since antiquity has played an important part in the turbulent history of the country with the Mycenaean Greeks first setting foot in the land more than 3,500 years ago.

The country’s cultural heritage is an opulent testimonial mosaic of the visible traces of Phoenicians, Assyrians, Franks, Venetians, Ottomans and British colonials left for our consumption.

To the west, on the opposite side of the island to Cypriot clubbing capital Ayia Napa, lies UNESCO world heritage site Pafos.  Previously the capital of Cyprus, Pafos is a quaint and charming town framed by a picturesque and vibrant harbour scene.

The modern town also boasts some of the best archaeological sites in the world with the Kato Pafos archaeological park offering a plethora of unearthed mosaics.

The marvellous mosaic floors of four Roman villas form the impressive epicentre, each chronicling the mythology surrounding Dionysus, the god of wine, Narcissus and his admiring wood nymph Echo and Theseus brandishing a club against a Minotaur.

Although amphitheatres commonly form the backdrop to many visions of Cyprus, the Pafos Odeon transports you to the theatrical and musical heritage of this lively seaside town.

Relaxing by the harbour, tourists can survey the byzantine fort that used to protect it from its many invaders, whilst supping on a traditional Cypriot coffee. An influx of high-end cruisers regularly offload eager tourists which has seen seafront attractions increase and historical sites become more accessible.

Yet the town is not merely a mausoleum to times gone by or a melting pot of relics of former civilisations, but it is also home to stylish and vibrant bars with panoramic views of the coast. Muse bar, at the top of the town, enjoys a mellow cosmopolitan atmosphere with stunning views overlooking the ambient town below.

The waiters at this establishment are skilled mixologists and it won’t be too long before a sunset turns into and all singing all dancing display of alcoholic artistry.

If not lulled into a self-indulgent coma by the azure waterfront, then a few miles inland lies a host of charming villages which will give you a taste of the flavours of Cyprus.

Omodus village, built on the Troodos hillside, is camouflaged by an expanse of vineyards. Narrow cobbled streets meander through this wine-producing haven, passing local craft shops, coffee houses and locals sitting on the steps of their homes basking in the sunshine as they talk to passers-by.

The monastery of Stavros at the epicentre of the village sees pilgrims venture to this hillside retreat to worship the icons and wood-carvings kept there.

Yet many a weary traveller ends up in one of the local tavernas. The sumptuous delights produced in these tavernas are not only of a high quality but also of significant quantity. The mezze platter, a 30-course food frenzy, is unparalleled.  Freshly-made halloumi, vine leaves, moussaka and tahini to accompany are just some of the culinary delights that make up this chorus of traditional dishes.

Yet no Cypriot feast would be complete without liquid accompaniment and the vineyards spread across the verdant hills surrounding these villages are the perfect respite from the heat.

The Vouni Panayia winery lies between Troodos and Pafos and this beautiful family-run property showcases the high calibre wines Cyprus is producing. This winery offers everything from fruity white Alina to sweet Commandaria, a wine from one of the oldest named appellations in the world and a favourite of Richard the Lion Heart.

They also provide wine tasting courses as well as tours of their vineyards. Soutzouko, a sweet made of grape juice and flour encasing an almond sweet will also be part of an induction into the Cypriot wine dynasty.

And so it appears that Cyprus may well be the cradle of wine development in the Mediterranean basin with archaeological excavations confirming that wine has been produced there for almost 5000 years.  

Dionysus the god of wine, a prevalent and stalwart figure in Cypriot culture will provide much entertainment for the intrepid traveller. Yet Aphrodite and her lascivious legend also govern much of Cyprus’ mythical past.  Many tourists travel to Petra Tou Romoi, the legendary birthplace of this god of love, beauty and pleasure.

Along this striking stretch of coastline hugging the south of Cyprus, from Pafos to Lemesos, mythical stories are played out in the travellers mind. Petra tou Romiou, known as the Rock of the Greek, stands as a solitary cluster of rocks amidst a vast ocean.

The place where Aphrodite rose from the waves looks like a still shot from Jason and the Argonauts. Legend has it that Gaia (Mother Earth) asked son Cronus to mutilate his father Uranus.

Cronus unceremoniously cut off Uranus’s testicles and threw them into the sea. From the foam rose a beautiful maiden standing naked and dripping on a seashell. Wherever she stepped, flowers bloomed and sand turned to grass.

Although ill-advised, it is also said that to swim round the rock naked three times will bring eternal youth.

Larnaka to the east of Pafos also offers an array of activities and sites to see, not to mention a coffee culture to rival most. This cultural hub synchronises both old and new, with some of the best scuba diving sites in the world a skip and a boat ride away from charming byzantine architecture.

The Agios Larazos Church and ecclesiastical museum are a must see not to mention the salt lake and medieval castle.

Despite the all-embracing effects of the recession, Cyprus has shown no signs of buckling under its weight. British, Russian and German tourists in particular are flocking to many of the serene resorts on offer.

The five star Columbia Resort and Hotel on Pissouri Bay looks passed an infinity pool to the real deal. This beach resort, which combines traditional Cypriot architecture with a modern approach to hospitality, offers everything from spa treatments, wedding venues and fine dining in a tranquil paradise.

Hotel Almyra, the original Pafos hotel, also provides stellar 5-star facilities however the innovative mezze of Asian fusion al fresco dining served in one of their many trendy restaurants, is incomparable.

Truffle oil infused tuna in a chilli marinade, fresh tiger prawn sushi and to finish, tomato and cherry caspachio with a balsamic and sundried tomato cake – a fusion of flavours you had never thought of but now can’t stop thinking about.

With so much to explore, learn and taste, Cyprus is proving a major contender to its Spanish rival.

Flights only: easyJet offer two flights per week from Liverpool to Larnaca, starting from £32.49 one way. EasyJet offer up to six flights per week from Manchester to Paphos from £33.49 one way.

Flights and accommodation: easyJet Holidays offer a wide range of 3, 4 and 5 star holidays from Manchester and Liverpool to Cyprus.

A seven night break at the five star Almyra Hotel on full board basis departing from Manchester (to Paphos) on 5 December costs £424 per person.

Book at www.easyJet.com/holidays or 0843 104 1000

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