Food & Drink

The independent businesses breathing life back into Stockport’s Underbanks

Wander down the cobbled streets of the Underbanks and you’ll come across a sign that reads: “We hope you’ve noticed, but in case you haven’t, Stockport is changing.”

And it certainly is. £1billion of regeneration money is currently being injected into the south Manchester town, as it looks to transform itself into a “dynamic and desirable place” to live, work and play.

In May, it was confirmed that work on the “cornerstone” of this investment – a “buzzing” new £60million neighbourhood centred around an historic mill – would begin imminently. The plans for Weir Mill, which was built in the 1700s, includes 253 new flats, spaces for independent businesses such as bars, restaurants, cafes and shops, and a new square, which will play host to riverside street markets and live entertainment. 

The Underbanks area in Stockport

Councillor Mark Hunter, the newly-elected leader of Stockport Council, said that the projects would see Stockport “become one of the most liveable and well-connected town centres in Greater Manchester”.

While the development has been lauded as a “major moment” for the town, it is just the latest in a string of exciting developments for Stockport. Over in the Old Town, investment in the Underbanks has already proven to be a big hit with locals – known as Stopfordians – and visitors alike. 

Referred to by some as the Soho of the North, the regeneration of the Underbanks – which encompasses streets including Little Underbank, Mealhouse Brow and Lower Hillgate – began in earnest around five years ago, as a number of independent businesses moved into the area.

They included The Plant Shop, Hillgate Cakery and Rare Mags – the latter specialising in national and international magazine titles, as well as books and stationary.

Rare Mags on Lower Hillgate

The steady build up of shops, cafes and bars along this picturesque stretch also includes the likes of feel-good bar Cherry Jam, up near the Marketplace, it’s neighbour, Good Rebel, with its well appointed beer garden, and two new bars – The Spinn launched by Emmerdale star Adam Thomas, and cocktail hangout, Town Bar, both of which launched over the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee weekend. 

More widely, the area’s regeneration ties into the ‘Rediscovering the Underbanks‘ initiative – a townscape heritage project spearheaded by Stockport Council and funded by the National Lottery Fund. Aiming to bring the area’s historic buildings back to life, reconnect people with the area and build a narrative around the town’s heritage, the restoration of several key buildings in the area has provided a further boost to existing businesses and paved the way for new arrivals.

One such building to benefit from the scheme is the Winter’s Building, brought back to life as a French Bistro, and run by Rachel Winter Jones and Marc Mole. Located on Little Underbank, The Grade II listed building was originally opened as a jewellers in 1890 and was one of the first places in the town to have electricity.

As part of its extensive renovation, its exterior soldier and sailor figures have been fully restored, while its famous clock is now chiming again. Inside, dark wood, ornate lighting and the original stucco ceiling nod to the building’s past, present and future.

Just along the way, at 15 Lower Hillgate, you’ll find the newly unveiled Yellowhammer, a bakery and pottery studio launched by Sam Buckley – chef-patron of the town’s Green-Michelin-starred restaurant, Where The Light Gets In – in collaboration with potter and creative Joe Hartley, and baker Rosie Wilkes. 

Named for the brightly-coloured woodland songbird’s call – said to go ‘a little bit of bread and no cheese’ – the venue, which opened in May, already has residents flocking for its traditional French baguettes, leek and butter buns and candied orange teacakes. 

A welcome addition to Underbanks, the new business takes over the former Tudor Cafe, and is one of the buildings that was earmarked for restoration by Rediscovering the Underbanks. The 19th century building’s original shopfront was removed in the 20th century and replaced by framed glazing and uPVC doors.

Since the Yellowhammer team bought the property in 2020, great effort has been made to restore the building back to its former glory, guided by historic photographs. Now, with its inviting bottle green exterior and awning typical of shops from the period, visitors and passersby can be momentarily transported back in time, while inside, industrial accents and exposed brick offer a contemporary feel. 

Rosie Wilkes, Head Backer at Yellowhammer, which has recently opened on Stockport’s Lower Hillgate

“We had been looking for somewhere in Stockport for a really long time, but we really just fell in love with this building, and it’s a really lovely community to be part of,” reflects Rosie Wilkes. “I don’t think I really realised until we moved in how important it would be to have such supportive neighbours – everyone has been so kind to us and everyone really looks out for each other.

“The frontage has been restored to what it would have looked like about 100 years ago, I think they went off an old black and white photograph. It feels like a real privilege to bake behind such a wonderful shopfront and in a lovely, old building.”

As well as Yellowhammer, Bistro Marc and local favourite Laco Cafe, the area has become home to Top Of The Town Vintage, owned by Sophia Rosemary Barrese. Like Rosie and the wider Yellowhammer team, she shares a palpable enthusiasm for the Underbanks. 

Artwork on the walls of Laco cafe along the Underbanks

“Stockport is my hometown so opening my vintage store here was a no brainer,” she explains. “There’s something really special about The Underbanks and Lower Hillgate area, there’s a real buzz, a great atmosphere and the buildings are gorgeous – it just felt like it had so much potential. 

“I really wanted to be a part of that magic and it’s so exciting to be part of the area’s transformation. There’s a real community spirit and energy, all the businesses want the best for the area.”

For Safiyyah Abdulla, whose health and eco-lifestyle store, Ginkgo Herbs & Health, sits just next to Top Of The Town Vintage, the area’s charm sealed the deal. “We chose Stockport as a second site after falling for its character – it had such heritage and charm.

Ginkgo is run by Safiyyah and her sister Qayyah

Safiyyah, who co-owns the shop with her sister Qayyah, sells a variety of health-focused snacks, over 50 different types of tea and a number of natural beauty products. “The area has been through some tough times but it’s lovely to see so many people rediscovering the area and enjoying what it has to offer – it’s a brilliant mix of new and old.

“There is a really close-knit community here where everyone looks out for each other, business owners and regulars know each other by name, and it’s great to be surrounded by a constantly evolving group of independents. It’s developing so quickly and in such an organic way.

“It wasn’t planned but we’ve got this incredible eclectic group of businesses now and an absolutely unique offering. There really is something for everyone.”

For Tony Murray, who opened his shop Old Town General Store, just across from Safiyyah and Sophia in October 2020, the decision to open on Lower Hillgate followed an impromptu night out in Stockport’s market area. “I sat in the Angel having a few pints, had a look around at the people and realised that there were some very well-dressed people that weren’t buying their clothes from Stockport because there was nothing like this available to them.

“Overall it’s been so successful in the last 20 months that I’ve already started to outgrow the store. More and more people, as the council say, are ‘rediscovering the Underbanks’.

I think the beautiful thing about what has happened around here is that it’s very organically come together. It’s nice that we all complement each other, but we’re not doing the same thing.

“I think people can now come for a day out in the Underbanks, you look at the buildings which are beautiful in themselves, but also see what quality has been brought into the town. The main word I would use to describe what people are feeling about Stockport now is pride. 

“And I think we massively lacked that in our own town before for a long time. The future here is independent, and another word I would use here is community. It sounds really cliched, but we really have got that here and we really look after each other.”

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